Men's fashion trends are few and far between; yes, a lot of women's trends are eventually adapted to the men's market, but if 2009 men's hair trends prove anything it is that classics will always rule when it comes to men's fashion. Unsurprisingly it's no different when it comes to men's suits.
Two suits perfect for 2009 and 2010 from Tom Ford's Spring 2009 collection
Suit Trends
While suiting and formal-wear trends for men aren't seasonal and play out over several years, 2009 shall mark a distinct change in the direction of men's suiting. It comes down to a combination of factors but the likes of the economic downturn, the end of the 'manorexic' era, and women's 1920's and 1930's revivals will all play a big part. But make no mistake: it's the first and last that will be the biggest influence, as well-groomed men look for investment fashion pieces and turn to the classics for inspiration.
So what elements should you look for?
The Cut
Just because there's a move away from the 'skinny boy' suit isn't to say that the slim look is also out. Suits which seem like they barely leave you room to breath mightn't be the look going forwards but as we return to classic suiting let's not forget that the most classic suit is the English one, and that the best English suits have always had a slim, military cut to them.
Consider suits in 2009, 2010 and beyond the perfect fusion between classic tailoring, classic looks, and the modern masculine silhouette;
- broad shoulders
- a slim waist
- slim trousers
Double Breasted Suits
If there's one thing I'm excited about buying in 2009 it's a modern, double-breasted suit. I only have one amongst my suit collection, and it's a Tom Ford for Gucci piece. It's adorable, but only because of the tailoring work done on it last year that took it from an American box-cut to a slim piece of perfection.
And that slim cut is precisely what you should be looking for in a double-breasted suit in 2009. Broad shouldered with a slim waist, 2009's double-breasted suits trump most that current generations will be familiar with; they're no longer about hiding a plump figure but are now tailored to highlight the perfect masculine shape: the V-shaped, well worked body.
When selecting a double-breasted suit look for the "Kent" cut, named after a style popularised by the The Prince George, Duke of Kent, where a longer lapel line extends into the waist. This will convey height and, if cut correctly, a slimmer waist.
Three-Piece Suits
Let's face it: the waistcoat has long been a dead item for most men, but thanks to a resurgence in its popularity in men's street wear the suits' waistcoat is back with vengeance. Well, not quite vengeance but it's back, it's subtle and it's classic. And that means that in 2009 we'll witness the return of the three-piece suit, and I couldn't be more happy. That's because the three-piece suit has been one of the most under-utilised parts of a man's wardrobe over the last forty years.
The three-piece in 2009 is all about cohesion; forget the mismatching style prevalent in the early parts of the 20th Century and in the 1980s. The return of the three-piece means that the waistcoat has to be conservative and, thus, in the same fabric as the suit's other two pieces. If you do want to venture outside the realm of three matching pieces, stick to a similar colour palette and avoid any pattern except for stripes; you may want to pair a pinstripe black suit with a pinstripe charcoal waistcoat.
On selecting the perfect three-piece suit I'd recommend looking for a waistcoat whose V shape breaks somewhere between the sternum and the base of the rib cage. I've seen three pieces from the likes of Giorgio Armani which don't sport the V shape and finish just under the collar, these are going to be a lot harder to wear and ignore the conservative subtlety this revival depends upon. Moreover, such a large waistcoat won't convey a slim waist as effectively as one with a deeper neck.
Oxford Bags; An Alternate Cut
A classic style yes, but not a long term investment piece. Nevertheless, two or three piece suits with Oxford bags are gradually making a come-back and can easily figure into your 2009 suit purchases. Oxford Bags are loose, pleated trousers first made popular at the British university. The modern take on them sees the loose trousers, though nowhere near as baggy as those worn in the 1920s and 1930s, paired with a fitted waistcoat and/or jacket.
Classic Patterns in 2009
If we're returning to the classics with double breasted and three-piece suits in 2009, then it stands to reason that we're also returning to classic cloth patterns. Moreover, the coupling of the classics with the current men's fashion revitalisation means this is the perfect time to reintroduce patterns into your wardrobe (if you haven't done so already). The following are classic suit patterns perfect for 2009 and beyond.
Houndstooth
Herringbone
Glenurquhart / Prince of Wales check
Pinstripe
Rope-stripe
Those feeling even bolder may lean towards a chalk-stripe, though it has an early naughties feel to it and I'm not yet sure whether we'll be working it in the early parts of the next decade.
Clothing inspired by dinner suits were a major inspiration for women's fashion in 2008, so it doesn't really come as a surprise that the same fashion trend will be prevalent in menswear in 2008 and 2009.
Tuxedo elements on men's catwalks: Dries Van Noten, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Kris Van Assche
But how will be be wearing it?
Certainly not in a semi-formal way, unless the invite requires it. Instead the men's 2008/2009 tuxedo trend will take its cues from the death of the dress code: pairing traditionally formal elements of the dinner suit with fashion pieces. Trend research agency Promostyl got it right in their Men's Summer 2008 Trendbook when they featured dinner suit elements under both their Academic and Spectacle themes.
Avoid James Bond's peaked lapels
The key for guys is to really know which elements to pick from a dinner suit. The easiest are going to be the satin shawl, satin notched or peaked lapels, or the satin stripe on the trouser leg. Personally I'd avoid a peaked lapel and stick to the shawl or notched lapel, these are far easier to wear. I'd also avoid selecting the formal dinner shirt as an element, despite it being included in the women's incarnation of the trend.
And where to buy it?
Dinner suits are an absolute bugger to buy, mostly because off the rack suits tend to be made for an older gents figure so finding a slim cut is near to impossible. Keep an eye out, however, for the recommended elements being used by high-end designers; Dries Van Noten men's catwalk serves as a prime example. If you'd like to buy the full suit and mix and match elements as desired, look to Ralph Lauren's Black Label with its slim cut dinner suit perfect for a trim figure. But if you're after something really unique, look no further than your local vintage fashion store. Don't be too averse at making a good investment however. The right dinner suit is timeless, and this trend will be around for Autumn(Fall)-Winter 2008/2009 and Spring-Summer 2009.
